3 years old, dismantled into 9 sections (including floor). Would require some repairs, new felt for roof and nails removed before reassembling. Can throw in the pictured metal shelf that we used inside the shed also if wanted.
Collection from SE22. Please PM me if interested.
See link to b&q where purchased:
Anybody can caulk a shower or tub. All you need is a tube of caulk and a caulking gun. But if you don’t prep the surfaces properly, the caulk won’t last long. And if you’re sloppy, the messy caulk job will ruin the look of even the most beautiful tile job. We talked to a few experts to learn how they get such smooth, clean-looking caulk lines, and we’ll show you their technique. And we’ll show you the best way to remove the old caulk and prep the surface to get a long-lasting caulk job. Finally, we’ll give you a heads-up on how to avoid the most common caulking mistakes.
You can remove the old caulk, prep the surface, and recaulk a tub or shower in about four hours (including drying time). You’ll need a razor scraper and single-edge razor blades, caulk remover, mineral spirits, paper towels, a utility knife, a caulk gun, and kitchen and bath caulk. An oscillating tool with a flexible scraper blade really speeds up the job of removing old caulk, but you can do the job without it. Here’s how to start.
Buy the right caulk and a quality caulk gun
Tubs and showers require a special caulk that contains mold and mildew prevention additives. The tubes are usually labeled “for kitchen and bath use.” Most are 100 percent silicone, but you can also find some latex versions. Latex caulk is easier to tool and cleans up with soap and water. If this is your first time applying caulk, latex may be your best option. Silicone is more challenging to tool and requires mineral spirits for cleanup. However, silicone lasts longer than latex and stays flexible over its life. But it’s harder to remove when it’s time to recaulk. Both types can develop mold and mildew once the additives wear out.
Most home centers and hardware stores stock only three kitchen and bath caulk colors: white, almond and clear. However, ask a salesclerk whether you can special-order a custom color. And check out a paint or hardware store. Some can custom-mix colors right in the store. Most tile stores will carry a full range of colors.
A high-quality caulk gun can make a difference in your caulk job. It has a sturdier plunger mechanism to provide a smooth, even flow and a pressure release to stop the flow quickly. High-quality caulk guns cost a bit more (about $15), but they’re worth it. Economy guns usually have a ratchet action or a sloppy friction mechanism that pushes the caulk out in bursts, so you apply too much in some areas and too little in others.
Preparation: Remove the old caulk Photo 1: Cut and peel the old caulk
Slice through the caulk along the walls with a utility knife or with an oscillating tool equipped with a flexible scraper blade. Then use your knife or tool to scrape along the tub or shower floor.
Photo 2: Loosen and remove the remaining caulk.
Squirt caulk remover on all the remaining caulk and let it do the hard work. Then scrape off all the old caulk with a razor scraper. Wipe with a rag.
You can’t apply new caulk on top of the old and expect it to last. So the old caulk has to go. If the old caulk was silicone, you have to devote extra effort to remove all traces of it before applying new caulk. Start by slicing through the old caulk with a utility knife or an oscillating tool (Photo 1). Then scrape off as much old caulk as possible. Next, apply caulk remover to break the adhesive bond and make it easier to scrape off (Photo 2).
Once the old caulk is gone, remove any loose grout between the walls and the tub or shower floor. Treat any mold in the grout along the wall/tub gap with a mold-killing product. Scrub the grout and then rinse off the mold killer with water and let it dry (use a hair dryer to speed the drying). Clean the surfaces one last time with mineral spirits. Let dry.
How to Caulk a Shower or Tub: Mask the gap Photo 3: Mask the gap
Mask the wall corner gaps first. Then apply tape to the walls above the tub or shower floor. Finish by applying tape to the tub or shower floor.
Some pros scoff at the idea of using masking tape. But they caulk every day and can lay down a caulk bead with their eyes closed. For DIYers, we recommend masking the gap. It takes a bit more time, but you’ll get much better results than caulking freehand. Start by finding the largest gap between the tub/shower and the walls. That gap dictates how far apart you must space the two rows of tape. Then apply the masking tape (Photo 3). If you have a fiberglass or composite tub, you should fill it before you caulk.
Avoid These Caulking Mistakes Buying the wrong caulk. Always use kitchen and bath caulk in a tub or shower. It contains mold and mildew inhibitors that are not present in other types of caulk. Caulking on top of old caulk. New caulk doesn’t bond well to old caulk, especially if the old caulk contains silicone. Just like with painting, better surface prep provides better results. Not removing mold on grout near the caulk areas. Grout is porous, and any mold present in the grout above the caulk line will eventually spread down into the new caulk area and destroy the bond. Cutting the nozzle larger than the gap you’re filling. A larger opening applies too much product, making it harder to tool and clean up. How to Caulk: Apply the caulk bead Photo 4: Cut, push and apply
Cut the nozzle tip to match the gap width. Hold the gun at a 90-degree angle to the gap and push a bead of caulk slightly ahead of the nozzle as you push the gun forward and continue applying pressure. Apply only enough caulk to fill the gap.
There are two schools of thought when it comes to tip angle and whether to pull or push the caulk. Our experts prefer cutting the caulk tube nozzle at a blunt 20-degree angle, instead of 45 degrees. And they hold the gun at a 90-degree angle to the gap while pushing a small bead ahead of the tip (Photo 4). That way, they can complete the entire bead in one pass. Plus, the gun pressure forces the caulk deeper into the gap for better holding power and sealing.
If you cut the tip at a 45-degree angle and pull the gun away from the starting corner, your gun will always run into the opposite corner, forcing you to flip it 180 degrees and start the bead again. That creates a blob where the two beads meet, making tooling more difficult. Plus, pulling the gun tends to apply a surface bead that doesn’t penetrate as far into the gap.
Whichever tip angle you choose, always cut the tip with a sharp utility knife rather than the cheesy guillotine mechanism built into some caulk guns. Remove any burrs with a utility knife or sandpaper before caulking—the burrs will create grooves in the caulk lines.
How to Caulk: Shape the bead and remove the tape Photo 5: Tool with your finger
Wet your finger with water and start at an outer corner. Wipe your finger across the caulk to create a rounded bead and remove excess caulk from the gap.
Photo 6: Peel off the tape
Lift a corner of the tape along the tub and pull it off at a steep angle while the caulk is still wet. Then remove the tape along the wall. Remove the tape from the wall corners last.
You can find all kinds of caulk-shaping tools at home centers. But if you take our advice and tape off the wall, you won’t need any shaping tools. Just use your index finger to tool the caulk (Photo 5). After tooling, remove the masking tape while the caulk is still wet (Photo 6). Let the caulk cure for the recommended time before using the tub or shower.
Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. Caulk gunPutty knifeRagsUtility knife You’ll also need a razor scraper, single-edge razor blades and an oscillating tool.
Required Materials for this Project
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. Bath and kitchen caulkCaulk removerMasking tapeMineral spiritsPaper towels
Adding a basement bathroom is a big, complicated project. But that doesn’t mean you can’t do it. Thousands of DIYers successfully tackle the job every year, and so can you.
We will focus on installing the “DWV” system (drain, waste and vent), which is the most difficult part of plumbing a basement bathroom. The DWV system requires some hard labor—breaking up concrete—and enough know-how to construct it so waste will be carried away without problems. You supply the labor; this article will supply the know-how.
The materials for the DWV system shown here cost about $250. Plumbers’ labor rates vary a lot by region, but most licensed pros would charge $1,200 to $2,000 for a job similar to the one shown here.
Figure A: Plumbing a basement bath
Connect the basement bathroom plumbing to the existing drain and vent lines in the floor and ceiling.
Find the main drain line Photo 1: Locate the main drain
Break through the concrete to verify that the main line is where you think it is and that it’s deep enough to allow adequate downhill slope in the new drain lines.
You’ll have to connect new drain lines to an existing line under the basement. So before you can do any real planning, you have to find that line. First, locate the “main stack,” the large (3 or 4 in. diameter) vertical pipe that runs into the basement floor. From there, the pipe runs under the floor and out to the city sewage system under the street. But it may run at an angle rather than straight out to the street. Look for a cleanout plug along the street-facing wall of the basement. If you find one, that’s most likely the spot where the line exits your home. And usually, the line runs straight from the main stack to the cleanout.
If you have a private septic system, your main line will run toward the location of the drain field. If you’re unsure where the line is, you have a couple of options. You can punch through the floor where you think it is (Photo 1). You might end up enlarging that hole or breaking a second exploratory hole, but that’s not as bad as it sounds; all it will cost you is some wasted time and a couple of extra bags of concrete mix when you patch the floor. Your second option is to get a plumber to help. In most areas, a brief house call will cost you $75 to $150. Some plumbers have access to high-tech equipment that locates lines precisely, but expect to pay $200 for that service.
Slope Makes the Sewage Flow
Drain lines require a downhill slope of at least 1/4 in. per linear foot (see note below) so that waste flows smoothly through the pipes. To determine if your plan allows for that, take a few measurements:
A: The depth of the center of the main line (at the tie-in point). B: The future depth of the horizontal pipe beneath the drain.
Now do a little math: (A – B) x 4 = the maximum length (in feet) of the drain line, from the main to the end of the horizontal pipe under the drain. If A is 13 in. and B is 10 in., for example, the maximum length of the drain line is 12 ft. (13 – 10 = 3; 3 x 4 = 12).
If your main line isn’t deep enough, you’ll have to locate fixtures closer to the line or install a sewage ejection pump.
Note: Some local codes allow 1/8 in. per foot with 3- or 4-in. pipe.
Plan the system
Once you’ve located the line, you’ll have to make sure it’s deep enough to allow downward slope in the new drain lines that will run from your future bathroom. Then grab a pencil and mark out the whole bathroom on the basement floor: walls, toilet, sink, shower and finally the drain lines.
Consider it all a preplan at this point. Chances are, you’ll have to make some changes as the plan develops. You may want to mock up sections of the system and lay them out on the basement floor using sections of pipe and an assortment of fittings. When the whole system is planned, mark it out on the floor. For photo clarity, we marked out bold lines on the floor. But simple spray paint is fine for drain lines.
Rent a Snapper
A cast iron pipe snapper works by tightening a cutting chain until the pipe cracks. They’re available at tool rental stores. Old cast iron pipe can crush rather than crack. If that happens, you’ll have to abandon the snapper and cut the slow way: with a reciprocating saw. If you have plastic pipe, cutting into the main is quick and easy with a reciprocating saw.
Trench the floor
A plain old sledgehammer will bust up a basement floor. Breaking through at the tie-in point (see Photo 1) may take a few dozen whacks. But once you have a starter hole, the job gets easier because the concrete has space to crack and break off. Within a few minutes, you’ll learn to aim your blows and bust out a neat trench line. Pick out the larger chunks of concrete as you go. Ideally, most of your trench will be just wide enough for your spade. When digging, toss the dirt on a pile separate from the larger chunks of concrete. You don’t want big chunks in the soil you’ll use for backfill later.
Build the drain system Photo 2: Break out a section of drain
After completing the trenches for the new lines, cut into the main line so you can install a Y-fitting. Our tie-in point was near an existing hub, so we cut out the hub. Make sure no one runs water (or flushes!) while the line is open.
Photo 3: Tie into the drain
Slip rubber couplers onto the main line, insert the Y-fitting, slide the couplers over the joints and tighten the bands. Then plug the inlet and grant your family the freedom to flush again.
Photo 4: Build the drain system
The location of the drains and vents is critical—check and double-check your work before you glue joints together. Determine where the exact location of the shower drain will be after the walls are framed. Cap open pipes to keep sewer gas out of your home. Don’t bury the lines until the building inspector has approved your work.
Photo 5: Patch the floor
Backfill the trench with soil and screed 3 in. of concrete over it. Pack the soil firmly so it won’t settle later. Smooth the concrete with a steel trowel.
Begin the drain system by cutting into the main line (Photo 2) and splicing in a Y-fitting (Photo 3). We used a no-hub cast iron Y-fitting to tie into our cast iron main. But you can use a plastic Y-fitting instead if you glue short sections of pipe into the Y-fitting to accommodate the rubber couplers. Use that same method to tie into a plastic main.
For your DWV system, you can use ABS plastic (as we did; Photo 4) or PVC. Both are easy to cut and join. The hard part of any underground pipe work is building branches that end up exactly where you want them while maintaining a constant slope of at least 1/4 in. per running foot.
Here are tips to help you get it right:
Buy twice as many fittings as you think you’ll need and a few types that you don’t think you’ll need. Return the leftovers when the job is done. If you don’t have a torpedo level, buy one (see Photo 7). It’s the handiest tool for checking the slope of pipes. When a section of pipe is complete, pack dirt under and around it to keep it from shifting as you build other sections. Know the “rough-in” of your basement toilet (the distance from the wall to the center of the drain, most likely 12 in.). Don’t forget to account for the thickness of framing and drywall. Backfill the trenches with care (Photo 5). You want to pack the soil tightly to prevent settling later, but be sure not to move the pipes as you tamp the soil. Build the vent system Photo 6: Build the vent system
After framing the bathroom walls, assemble the vent lines. We ran our vent lines below the floor joists and later framed a lower ceiling to hide the pipes.
Photo 7: Connect to an existing vent
Glue short sections of plastic pipe into a T- or Y-fitting, cut out a section of the existing vent pipe and make connections with rubber couplers.
Photo 8: Position the shower drain
Set the shower pan in place and measure from the walls to determine the exact location of the drain. Assemble the drain and trap without glue. Then set the pan in place again to check your work before you finally glue up the fittings.
The vent system is a lot simpler than the drain system. We ran vent lines under the floor joists (Photo 6) and framed in a lower ceiling later. If you want to preserve ceiling height by running pipes through the joists, you’ll have to bore some large holes, which can weaken the joists. To avoid that, see “How to drill through floor joists.”
In most basements, you can tie your new vent system into the line that vents the laundry sink. Our plumbing inspector allowed us to connect our new 2-in. vent line to an existing 1-1/2-in. vent. Before cutting a section out of the old steel vent, we installed extra metal strapping to support the pipe during and after cutting.
Note: Plumbing codes vary by locality. The rules we give in this article generally follow the strictest codes. Your local rules may be more lenient about issues like vent sizing, the choice of fittings, etc.
Waste line Q & A When should I use a T-fitting?
Use a T-fitting in drain lines to connect a horizontal pipe to vertical pipes. It can also be used to tie vent lines into horizontal drains or to join vent lines.
When should I use a Y?
In the drain system, use a Y-fitting to connect horizontal pipes (Photo 3). Along with a 45-degree “street” fitting, you can use a Y-fitting to run vertical drainpipes into horizontal pipes as shown. A Y-fitting can also be used in vent systems.
Why does the home center carry three different types of L-fittings? A standard L-fitting is used for horizontal-to-vertical flow in drain systems. A “sweep” or “long-turn” L-fitting is OK for almost any situation and is required in two situations: horizontal-to-horizontal turns and vertical-to-horizontal turns (as shown). But it can be used in any situation where space allows. Use a vent L-fitting only in vents.
What’s a street fitting?
Standard fittings have hubs that fit over pipes. A street fitting has a “streeted” end that fits into a hub, so you can connect it directly to another fitting without using a section of pipe. That saves labor and space.
What size drainpipe should I use? The basement toilet requires 3-in. or larger. Use 2-in. for the others; pipes smaller than 2 in. aren’t allowed beneath a concrete slab.
Venting Q & A Vent L-fitting
A vent L-fitting can be used anywhere in the vent system, but only in the vent system—never where waste flows. The other two types of L-fittings are OK for venting, too.
What’s the vent for? A plumbing vent is kind of like the air intake on a gas can; it lets in air. Without venting, a slug of sewage racing through a waste line creates air pressure and vacuum in the pipe. That means noisy, gurgling drains. Even worse, vacuum can suck all the water out of traps, allowing sewer gas to flow freely into your home. Yuck.
Vent-to-trap distance—there’s a limit Every drain needs a trap, and every trap needs a vent. The maximum distance between the trap and vent depends on the diameter of the pipe.
Memorize these distances for midterm exams:
For 1-1/4″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 30″ For 1-1/2″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 42” For 2″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 5′ For 3″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 6′ For 4″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 10′
Note: A basement toilet has a built-in trap, so it doesn’t need one in the drain line. It still needs a vent, though.
Can vents run horizontally? Yes, but horizontal vent lines must be at least 6 in. above the “spill line,” which is the level where water would overflow the rim of a sink, tub or basement toilet.
What size vent pipes do I need? A typical bathroom like the one we show (sink, toilet, shower or tub) requires a 2-in. vent. You could run smaller pipes to the sink or shower, but it’s usually easier to use one size for the whole system.
Required Tools for this Project
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. 4-in-1 screwdriverCordless drillHammerLevelMiter sawRagsReciprocating sawSafety glassesShop vacuumSledgehammerSocket/ratchet setSpadeStepladderTape measureTrowel In addition you will need a cast iron pipe snapper and a torpedo level.
Required Materials for this Project
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. 2 x 4s2-3-and 4-in. plastic and cast iron pipe and fittingsBand couplingsConcretePipe glue
I agree 100% with DulwichFox. Although it may not seem an appealing option at the moment, I’d rip it out and put a new one in – with the taps in a more accessible place for (inevitable) future maintenance.
I really don’t think any plumbing should ever be complelely boxed in and/or inaccessible.
This is Andy, boss of Southwark Cyclists and the man who earns the money which pays for Dr Bike. Led by pro-mechanic Charlie and staffed by Andy and Mike we will be on Quietway 1 outside Crol coffee shop from 5.30-7.30pm tomorrow (ie July 19th).Pix of Andy and Crol are attached.
The Dr Bike team will be hoping to keep cool under the trees beside Lynton Road at the junction with Dunton Road. This is part of Quietway 1, London’s best Quietway, designed by a council engineer with input from Sustrans and us. It’s good.
You will need to bring a bike which needs fixing. Other than that there are no rules. Anything we can do on the spot we will and anything we can’t do we will give you wise advice about. This is the time of year and the weather (combined with the chaos on the trains) in which people’s minds turn to cycling. Let us help you get on the road.
This bike maintenance session is free and open to all. It’s organised and paid for by Southwark Cyclists, the borough branch of the London Cycling Campaign which campaigns for safer, more enjoyable cycling in London. To take advantage of it you don’t need to live in Southwark or belong to anything at all.
Celebrate the end of the school year with our FREE family summer disco party!
Venue address: The Cherry Tree pub, 31-33 Grove Vale, London SE22 8EQ
Date/time: Thursday 19th July, 4-6pm
I’ll be behind the decks playing lots of cool tunes and making sure everyone has lots of fun.
No need to pre-book, just turn up, grab a drink and have a boogie with your kids.
For more info on our popular disco parties please visit- http://www.nuttyschildrensparties.co.uk/disco.htm
Hopefully we’ll see you there for lots of fun games, competitions, prizes and, above all, dancing.
Spread the word!
Also, if you’re looking for child care over the summer holidays then help could be at hand with our Summer Sports and Drama Camp in nearby West Norwood! All the info and booking details you need are here- http://www.nuttyschildrensparties.co.uk/holidayworkshops.htm
Founder and director
Nutty’s Children’s Parties